"People don't take trips, trips take people".
John Steinbeck
Bangalore - Amritsar - Srinagar - Leh - Ladakh - Lahaul Valley - Spiti Valley - Kinnaur - Shimla - Chandigarh - New Delhi - Agra - Bangalore.
30 days - 10323 kilometers - 3 international borders - 4453 photographs - 1 ride of a lifetime.
"My first solo" - dedicated to the heaven on earth.
If you have missed the previous parts, here they are.
PART 3.
No wonder India is called as "Incredible India". With innumerable number of travel destinations, India offers a hell lot of epic getaways which makes you go weak as a baby kitten with the sniffles (read as spellbound) or gets you completely excited like a puppy. And Ladakh happens to be the alpha on that list.
True to its quintessence beauty, Ladakh is one of those places which is meant to freeze your butt off. With guaranteed white winter all year long, Ladakh redefines surreal ness. From grazing pastures surrounded by the Himalayan mountains to the valley of flowers, from high altitude cold deserts to lunar landscapes, from soul cleansing monasteries to treacherous terrains, you name it, Ladakh has it all.
14th of June 2015 (Day 9).
Budhkharbu - Lamayuru Monastery - Alchi Monastery - Likir Monastery - Confluence at Nimmu - Magnetic Hills - Hall of fame - Leh.
Total expenses = INR 595.
For us bikers/motorcyclists, Ladakh is the ultimate riding destination. It isn't compulsory, but it sure as hell isn't "optional". It has to be done. It's the only way we feel sorted for the life. We just can't do without doing the mesmerizing Ladakh.
8 am. As I stepped out, the only sight around was endless stretch of mountains flaunting their snow-clad blankets glistening in the morning sun. The air outside smelt adventure. And that's when I pulled up my socks and cruised towards Lamayuru Gompa, but not before indulging myself face first in the lip smacking Maggi noodles which rules the roost by almost being omnipresent throughout Ladakh.
A couple of hours later, I was at the monastery complex of Lamayuru - a whitewashed temple which sat on the hill like a fortress. I looked at the monks (wearing burgundy robes) with a slightly bemused look. I was as exotic to them as they were to me.
Inside the temple I start admiring the alters and hangings, the burning incense and butter lamps and beautifully executed paintings of deities with eye popping colours, not just of serene Buddha but fierce manifestations festooned with skulls. One simply cannot explain the prospect of the influence here, it has to be physically felt. Just breathtaking.
Turned out, it was my lucky day. The Lamayuru festival was in full swing. Not all get to witness this amazing eye candy of a celebration which hosts various day-long dance extravaganza. Well, its more like a ceremony where the horns sound out, drums beat, cymbals clash, trumpets blare and masked dancers emerge, whirling in slow motion, balancing on one clogged foot, then the other, in a mesmerizing ritual. And the electrifying environment just gets you drenched in awesomeness. Again, words are no good.
Then came Alchi and Likir monasteries. You may be the baddest lunatic around town, ping pong pyrotechnics may be your specialty and mayhem may happen to be your middle name, but once you enter the premises of these monasteries, you find yourself completely calmed down. You get into a meditative state and into a trance where you just feel blessed. The ambience over there was so divine, it literally felt like I was washed of my sins.
Turned out, it was my lucky day. The Lamayuru festival was in full swing. Not all get to witness this amazing eye candy of a celebration which hosts various day-long dance extravaganza. Well, its more like a ceremony where the horns sound out, drums beat, cymbals clash, trumpets blare and masked dancers emerge, whirling in slow motion, balancing on one clogged foot, then the other, in a mesmerizing ritual. And the electrifying environment just gets you drenched in awesomeness. Again, words are no good.
Then came Alchi and Likir monasteries. You may be the baddest lunatic around town, ping pong pyrotechnics may be your specialty and mayhem may happen to be your middle name, but once you enter the premises of these monasteries, you find yourself completely calmed down. You get into a meditative state and into a trance where you just feel blessed. The ambience over there was so divine, it literally felt like I was washed of my sins.
5 pm. A land of endless beauty in the form of dry land with monasteries dotting its landscape & lakes so pure that you can only stand agape in awe, was made more exotic by the Confluence. One was a sparkling blue river (Indus). The other was a dirty brown (Zanskar). Both mixed to form a spectacular sight. I was at the Confluence at Nimmu. Both rivers, originating in the high Himalayas blended together to form a splendid spectacle. Take a look.
If that isn't fascinating, I don't know what is.
The locals claim it to be a supernatural phenomenon and have interesting stories about it while science calls it as a case of an optical illusion. In a stretch of road at some 29 kilometers from Leh, I experienced the law of gravity go for a toss. I was at the Magnetic Hill. Here, the vehicles veer up an uphill slope even with the ignition turned off. Strange but true. Science may call it as anything it wants, I believe it was purely magical.
6:30 pm and I was at the Leh's Hall of Fame. Similar to the Kargil war memorial, the Hall of Fame, located at a close proximity to Leh Airfield, is a memorial for the war heroes who sacrificed their lives during the Indo-Pak wars. There were some pretty cool stuff on deadly combat, weapons, military equipment, local culture and the Saichen glacier. But the best part was the fascinating true life stories of the war heroes and their deeds. They were a real inspiration.
7.30 pm. The moment I was out of Hall of Fame, I saw that one thing which makes every motorcyclist heart leap with glee; open road baby, open road. The interesting part was, that road lead to the beautiful town of Leh. A few miles later, I found myself haphazardly looking for a place to crash for the night. I entered a hotel and saw a couple of Royal Enfields parked outside with prayer flags tied quaintly to their mirrors. The next thing I know, I was sharing a room with the riders of those motorcycles. Pushkar and Sudeep happened to be their names. Friendly chaps in their late 20s, with nothing more to talk but life experiences (read as motorcycle expeditions), we sat on a round table in the freezing cold sipping on Old Monk.
If there is one brand in India that has managed to create a niche for itself without spending a penny on advertisements, it is the "Almighty Old Monk". (There is Royal Enfield, of course, but I don’t like to ‘mix drink and drive’!). So it was drink and hit the sack for me.
Overnight stay = Leh.
Stay type = Hotel.
15th of June 2015 (Day 10).
Leh - Leh DC office (ILP) - Spikut Monastary - Shey Palace - Thiksey Monastery - Karu - Hemis Monastery - Leh.
Total expenses = INR 910.
Just as I woke up, the thought of me "getting Leh'd" rammed me like a speeding truck gone berserk at 60 kilometers per hour. Leh, while it had been an adventure for some, for the rest it was all about conquering their own fears and the passion to ride enjoying the wild. For me, it was venturing onto those offbeaten paths and spending some quality time with mother nature.
After a long shower (considering I hadn't showered in ages), I was at the alluring main streets of Leh. The place was adorned with remnants of Buddhism giving way to Buddhist prayer flags and prayer wheels which could be gently pushed to let the prayer rolls inside invoke the almighty. The market place was filled with Tibetan handicrafts and memorabilia as like the military vans and armed soldiers. I couldn't have bought anything even if I would have wished for (keeping in mind that my epic expedition was just beginning and the places I were going was completely unreasonable), so it was all window shopping for me to the level 17000.
11:30 am. Soon after getting my Inner Line Permits for the desolated places (Shayok village, Man village, Merak village, Chusul village, Tsaga-La, Loma bend, Hanle village) from the Leh DC office, I wended towards Spikut Monastery/Gompa. This Gompa (local name for a Monastery) has a huge prayer wheel and a Kali Mata temple. I guess I'll never understand religion but the view of rocky, steep mountains which stood tall amidst azure streams, upon which frothy white clouds breath, and the touchdown and take off of planes and choppers was a common sight here. A visual treat fit for a traveler’s dreams.
Note : Inner Line Permits (ILP) are the permits given by the Leh District Commissioner to visit the desolated places which are very close to the International Borders (Indo-Pak and Indo-China). Without these permits, you will be stopped and sent back at the Military Check post.
1 pm. A 16th century, 3 storeyed palace built of mud, stones and wood, having a 7.5 meters statue of seated Buddha, made up of copper and brass plated with gold, silver studded with gems and precious stones, robed by pure silk with astonishing colors, with an enticing valley in the foreground on the banks of which one can spend endless evenings just looking into the vastness of Ladakh and reasonably concluding that it is this virgin nature of the land mostly untouched; I was at Shey palace.
Shey palace was a place that was unique in its beauty and unparalleled in its serenity. Spending a lot of time in his sanctum, it was the lastingness I visited Thiksey Monastery.
Hidden in the folds of this mystical land was the monastery complex of Thiksey. One of the grandeur monasteries in Ladakh and Spiti, this monastery complex is perched atop a cliff. An elegant 12 storeyed structure, a 49 feet Maitreys's statue (biggest one in Ladakh), truck loads of rare Buddhist relics like thangkas, impressive headgear, huge swords, old stupas and much more; Thiksey is a place which is not to be missed.
It's exteriors painted in red, ocher and white, makes it more of a landmark, visible from miles standing tall in an otherwise brown landscape. A vantage point for nature lovers, for inspiring views of the flood plains of Indus valley, Thiksey doesn't disappoint.
I missed Stakna and Stok monasteries on purpose. I wanted some things to be left out so that I would get Leh'd again.
5 pm. Hemis Gompa welcomed me. Quite an ancient, 11th century, Tibetan style, biggest and the wealthiest monastic institution in all of Ladakh which celebrates the famous Hemis festival is definitely a location which is not to be missed. I head, head first into a snazzy looking square (temple complex) and let the monument of unparalleled beauty play its magic on me.
Inside, the Buddha's charm totally took me for a spin!!!, not to mention the phenomenal statue perched on the hill top. In addition to that, Hemis Gompa has a jaw dropping collection of gold and silver stupas, thangka paintings, murals, a museum and an impressive range of artifacts (no wonder the Gompa gives uncle scrooge an inferiority complex).
7:30 pm. It was a sunset (the sun sets very late in this part of the world). There's something unexplainably graceful about a sunset here. It changes every single second but still remains timeless. It creates an awe-inspiring receptivity which makes you realize that you don't really require so many things in life that you crave about. It constructs you to feel big and small at the same time. Watching the sunset over the radiant Stok range and getting soaked in it's exalted aura is something which I'll cherish for a long long time.
9 pm. I was back at the hotel to turn over and sleep.
Overnight stay = Leh.
Stay type = Hotel.
16th of June 2015 (Day 11).
Leh - Shanti Stupa - Leh palace - Khardung La - Hunder.
Total expenses = INR 2890.
Just as I sand the spark plug, plug it back and kick start the motorcycle, a wave of kickassness gripped my mind. To bethink "The Highest Motorable Pass in the World - Khardung La" was on schedule, got me high without getting high. But not before visiting the enticing Shanti Stupa and the alluring Leh palace.
My next rendezvous with Lord Buddha was at Shanti Stupa. A sparky white stupa standing against a backdrop of arcane mountains and gloomy clouds, Shanti Stupa is nothing less than fascinating. The Stupa overlooks the beautiful town of Leh almost symbolically, expressing the influence of spiritualness over each and every nuance of a Ladakhi.
A memento which promotes world peace is a must visit for those shutterbugs to shoot some sweet time lapses. It has some relics too, and yeah if you are feeling restless as an exploding gummy bear, you can spend some time meditating as well. Well, I'm more of a crazy person; maintaining zen like calm and mastering the art of doing nothing was the last thing on my mind. So, I head out to Leh palace.
It was a nine storeyed structure in dun color, erstwhile home of the royals, a 17th century palace rising up against the setting of the lofty Himalayas, looking more like a painter's muse, looming high in the skyline of Leh, standing guard over this kingdom, built of mud, rocks and wood, it was grand in it's simplicity. It was the Leh palace. The interior, with a rich collection of traditional dresses, crowns, exclusive paintings and ornaments displayed a wild profusion of color. It just made me to put on a happy face.
The best part was the terrace from which I pored over Leh, Stok kangri and the Zanskar range . While I was recovering from the awe of the artistry of God, Khardung La struck me. This great trail gives goose bumps just by thinking about it. Some claim it to be the highest motorable pass in the world, while others say its not. Whatever be the fact, there is no denying the enigma surrounding it.
I proceed slowly and steadily towards the top beating the heavy winds. I climb the altitude of many 1000s of feet, leaving behind the familiar temperatures and weather conditions. The hill tops seemed sprinkled with white dust unevenly, very many peaks of the mighty Himalayas appeared just a breadth away, all beautifully snow clad. And riding was like meditating. It made me feel connected with everything.
The next thing I noticed was a huge stretch of stopped vehicles, both military and civilian at the south check post (south pullu). They said, they were waiting from 7am. It was 2 pm and the weather was too gloomy, felt like a blizzard was ready to be unleashed (I guess the weather Gods were busy doing some crazy a** pushups by indulging themselves in some Russian vodka, wearing only pajamas. well, I'll never know).
They say only the best of friends or the worst of enemies visit the rugged Ladakh. But, traveling all alone, I've known my own self in ways that I've never imagined. It's a beautiful world out there, and some really amazing and helpful people you'll meet along the way. By simply striking a conversation, you will learn that the travelers (not to be mistaken with tourists) are the most interesting people you meet in the world. "They chase life, not a living". With their own adventures to talk about, they narrate their own stories, the best part being the never ending conversations.
I meet Mr. Vishnu Mehta (a veteran biker who holds multiple records at home and abroad, which includes a Guinness world record), a biker who started the riding scene way back in 1996 in India and still rides strong. "People used to think I was crazy back then", he said starting the conversation. The conversation went on for ages until we were good to go. 3:30 pm, we provide a self declaration form (a from which basically said, no body was responsible if we were to end up dead along the way. It was more of a devil's pact) at the check post and start our engines to get to Khardung La.
There are some who put sugar in their morning tea and there are some who put a drop of adrenaline into it. The latter are the ones who ride to Khardung La - The Highest Motorable Pass in the World at 18380 feet (height disputed). The ride to the top is nothing like just a ride to the top. If you want to make God laugh, tell him you have a plan here. Its more like surviving. Very high altitude, dusky tracks, deadly bends, sub zero temperature, merciless winds, scarce of oxygen, freezed out roads producing zero traction, snowfall and unexpected avalanches is something which has to be dealt with. Well, life's too short to be played safe isn't it??.
After all, its the unexpected which delivers the greatest results. And by that, I mean Khardung La is not heaven but you'll die to be here. It should be visited by ones with a penchant for striking off things from their bucket list. The rapidly changing sceneries on the route and the jaw dropping collection of outstanding backdrops are the experiences of a lifetime.
I went, I saw, I stood conquered.
I was at the top. It seemed like a welcome from the heaven above, which at such heights feel closer, when the hypnotizing whiff of unadulterated Ladakhi breeze played with the prayer flags. The distant sky in which the dramatic milky clouds float was a vista in which the eyes never got enough of the pleasantry. Snow made this place even more beautiful while the snow kissed thoroughfare gave way to grandeur of nature in it's prime glory.
After I recovered from the awe of the frozen landscape, I saw myself piercing through the road (yes!!!, we call them roads) clad both sides with a lush blanket of crystalline water. It just felt absolutely amazing to zoom past the snow instead of dragging myself in the sluggish roadway amidst the concrete jungle. It was NOT a rat race, but a rejuvenating race through a blast of fresh air. Pure bliss is all I felt.
It was the sunset. We were cruising towards Nubra Valley. Did I mention Amit Das, the guy from West Bengal, who got Leh'd in his 150 cc Hero Honda achiever. If we were Dare Devils, this guy was a Dare Devil personified. I mean, riding to Ladakh itself is a task, but riding a machine which is ages old and with bare necessities is like swimming naked in a hungry shark tank soaked with blood. Complete pandemonium. A true rider.
8:30 pm. We (me and Amit) found a sweet little home stay for a ridiculously low price.
Overnight stay = Hunder.
Stay type = Home stay.
17th of June 2015 (Day 12).
Hunder - Diskit - Khalsar - Sumur - Panamik - Khalsar - Agham.
Total expenses = INR 1460.
If jaw-dropping scenery is what you wish for in your Ladakh trip, there is no skipping Nubra Valley..........
To be continued......
Until then, ride hard ride safe.
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